Falcon Leather

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Matiere Premiere

Brand

Matiere Premiere

Brand's website

https://matiere-premiere.com/

Perfumer

Aurelien Guichard

Released

2019

Gender

Unisex

Dominant note

Birch Tar

Top notes

Labdanum Saffron

Heart notes

Birch Tar

Base notes

Oud Benzoin

Fragrance description

Imagine a cold, snowy Scandinavian forest, a tent, warm clothes and a campfire to keep warm. A pristine nature that has not been spoiled by human activities. This can be a good opening for a good movie, but also for a good perfume. Knowing me, I am not going to tell you about a movie today (that's my other passion), but about perfumes inspired by the leather gloves used by falconers. Birches are the most important deciduous tree species in Finland, and from there comes the next raw material - Birch Tar Oil that Aurelien Guichard showed us in his own way.

The use of birch tar dates back hundreds of years and the variety of uses in that time is enormous: from fixing arrowheads to medicine, cosmetics, perfumery (to give leather and smoky notes) to tanning leather to make it waterproof and give it its distinctive scent. Birch tar has an amazing ability that other waterproofing agents do not have: It repels water completely repel water yet let the leather to breathe (allowing moisture to move from the inside out). This is especially important for gloves and shoes.

Falcon Leather is undoubtedly the darkest fragrance from the brand's entire collection (I have not tried the new Harrod's exclusive Oud Seven, which also seems to be dark), but it's still incredibly comfortable to wear (unisex leaning towards masculine). How can I describe it... leathery, smoky, deep and mesmerizing, but also woody, natural and slightly sweet. It's a charming take on the scent of leather gloves, but it's much more than that. The main character is surrounded by other essential ingredients like saffron, cistus labdanum from Andalusia, benzoin absolute from Laos and oud. It all adds up to a complex and deep aroma that transitions from somewhat sharp black leather at first to warm suede and woody notes on the drydown. No brainer if you are reaching for a leathery fragrance.

Aurelien Guichard has once again done a great job highlighting the texture and the most beautiful facets of another specific raw material he has focused on.

Other perfumes by Matiere Premiere

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